There were two places on my mind when I needed a temporary escape from the hustle and bustle of work and the thoughts that were disturbing my mind. One is Manali and the other is Kashmir. I love traveling alone but my travels would not be complete without friends. When Santosh and Shafiq were joined by their wives, our travel planning accelerated. As Manali is a tourist hotspot, it did not take much thought to make this trip to heaven on earth.
Two days before departure, we were disturbed by the news that Indian troops had clashed with militants on our way home. He was in constant touch with the tour operators and Kashmiri friends in the office. The five of us set off, believing the sincerity of another Kashmiri friend who had sent me a message saying that he would call me for any purpose with their assurance that there were no issues affecting tourists.
When I reached Delhi via Chennai on an afternoon flight from Bangalore, it was past 8 pm. The train to Jammu was at ten o'clock so we did not have to spend much time there. When the cab, booked online, arrived at the Delhi Sarai Rohilla railway station, it was on the Udhampur Express platform two.
When I heard the sound of the mobile alarm at 6 in the morning, I got up and looked down from the berth. The train had just passed the Pathankot railway station. Haryana, Himachal Pradesh and Punjab were among the states we passed by on the train.
When I heard the sound of the mobile alarm at 6 in the morning, I got up and looked down from the berth. The train had just passed the Pathankot railway station. Haryana, Himachal Pradesh and Punjab were among the states we passed by on the train.
We arrived at the Jammu Tawi railway station while thinking about the North Indian village views that were lost due to the night journey. Jammu Tawi is a railway station that is not the same size as a large railway station in our country. Most of the travelers are tourists and pilgrims to the Vaishno Devi Temple. The weather in Jammu surprised us. It was almost 30 degrees Celsius, almost like the climate in our country.
As previously reported, Driver Goldising was waiting for us in front of Shop No. 64, Mangal Market, near the railway station. We have to travel in his Innova car in the next few days. Mangalmarket is a place with shops for tourists only, as well as dry fruits and Kashmir's unique variety of clothing.
On the first day of our trip to Kashmir, we had to go to Pahalgam. It is located at a distance of 300 km from Jammu. On the way, we ate at a Punjabi hotel and proceeded onwards. We really enjoyed the view of the views through the roads of the steep hills. On the way we saw the Chanderkot Dam and the Chennani-Nashari Tunnel Road.
The longest tunnel road in India was built by former Prime Minister Manmohan Singh and inaugurated by Prime Minister Narendra Modi last year. It is about nine kilometers long. On the way there are three tunnel roads, both small and large. The driver told us that the Hindi movie Janedushman was shot in a village surrounded by hills near this tunnel road.
Halfway on the highway from Jammu to Kashmir, it was getting cold by the time we stopped for lunch at Banihal. Banihal is a place with a few people, a school, a church and other businesses on that crossroads. We could see the Kashmiri lives that Advani was working for then on that hill.
In the distance we began to see snow-capped mountains that seemed to delight our eyes. The driver pulled over to the side of the road during a dispute over who saw him first. Where was the Titanic View Point, with farms below and snow-capped peaks in the distance. After spending some time there and taking photos, it started to rain and we headed back to the vehicle.
It had been hours since the car had taken us through the uphill road and started going through the mustard fields and saffron fields. It is a special sight to see mustard fields full of yellow flowers as far as Noketa. Soldiers are stationed on the road and in the fields. It was evening when we turned right from Srinagar Road and reached Anantnag.
Security has been beefed up everywhere since the clashes erupted two days ago. As the soldiers patrolled the streets, it was as if they had reached a battlefield. The car headed towards Pahalgam along the road adjacent to the apple orchards where white flowers were blooming.
At 5 pm we arrived at the ‘Pahalgam Retreat’ hotel in Pahalgam where we stayed for the first day. The hotel is located near the rafting point on the famous Lidder River. Went into the room and quickly came out fresh. The intention was to take a short walk along the calm river bank and, if possible, take a few photos before the lights went out.
Pahalgam is also known as the Valley of Shepherd. At an elevation of 7200 ft above sea level, it is a place of snow-capped mountains, grasslands, rivers and freshwater lakes. On the way we saw people grazing their sheep on the hillside. Many parts of Bollywood movies like Bajrangi Bhaijan and Jabtak Hai Jaan have been shot in Pahalgam.
By nightfall, the temperature had dropped to 7 degrees. As I watched the Punjabi family line up around the campfire, I stood for a while in the warmth of the charcoal-filled kangaroo in Phiran, the traditional Kashmiri dress worn by the vendors in front of the hotel.
We got up at six in the morning and walked back through the cobbled riverbank to see the sights and take photos. After breakfast at the hotel we headed down to see the sights of Pahalgam. The famous Amarnath Yatra is the starting point on the way. Amarnath is a famous Hindu cave temple located at an elevation of 13000 ft above sea level, surrounded by snow capped mountains. During the month of July-August every year, a pilgrimage to the temple, which is located at a distance of 16 km from here, takes place.
The Pony Ride was a beautiful experience in Pahalgam. We had to go through seven places (Kashmir Valley, Dabyan, Byzantium, Kanimarg, Waterfall, Pahalgam Valley and Tulian Lake) crossing hills, mountains and streams. The journey starts as pre-arranged at a rate of Rs 2,000 per person. Although I often struggled to control my most disobedient Milkha Singh in the crowd, I was clever enough to lead the other ponies from the front.
The journey of about six or seven kilometers was one of the most memorable in my life. We often had to try our best not to fall off the pony while going down the hill. On the way, I happened to see some of my local friends by accident on a pony ride alone or in groups. The skill of the ponies that carried us through the mud and steep slopes was truly amazing.
We rode the pony as far as the places where kings used to go hunting in the past. We arrived at what is now called Mini Switzerland as a break from the long journey. In the distance is a vast meadow surrounded by snow-capped mountains and pine trees. Really an impression that we arrived in Switzerland. There are many activities for tourists, including sorbing. When we returned after spending about an hour there, our horses were waiting for us.
By the time he returned from the pony ride, he was still calling the bank from a nearby church. My friend Shafiq and I walked to the mosque because it was time for Friday prayers. Unlike the churches in our country, it was a small church made of unpolished stone and wood. By the time we arrived the church was full of people so we had to sit in a beautiful courtyard with beautiful grass spread all around. Maybe it didn't take long for it to feel good. The sights in front of my eyes while listening to Qutb were so beautiful.
Along with the weedy sounds of the river flowing ahead, the snow on the mountainside beyond the river reminded me once again of the diverse creations of God-made nature. By the time the prayers began, a small drizzle had drawn the hands of the natives around us into the fireworks they were wearing.
We walked out of the church and walked to the nearest Paradise restaurant to try out Kashmiri dishes. We also tried the unique Kashmiri mutton dishes with basmati rice. Instead of coconut oil, mustard oil as well as spicy cashmere chilli are used in the curries. Even if the curries are colorful, you may not see any color on your hands after eating.
After lunch we walked into a small tea stall that we saw while shopping with small shops and decided to try Kashmiri Kava (a drink like tea). We also asked how to make Ugran Kashmiri Kava mixed with green tea, cardamom, almonds, saffron and honey.
We have a lot to offer in Pahalgam, including Betab Valley, Six Valley and Overa Six National Park.
After unseen sights we checked out the hotel room and headed towards Gulmarg. As it was Friday, there were less vehicles on the road. All the shops are closed and it looks like a hartal. No shops are opened in Kashmir on Fridays except in tourist places. If all the roads to Pahalgam were mustard fields, you could see apple orchards all the way here. Apple orchards with white flowers were a new sight for us. One of the things we missed because it came in April was the fruiting apple trees. By the month of September, all these water lilies will have turned into reddish cashmere apples. I was assured that I would have to come to Kashmir once again to see that sight.
The sun, which smiled at the day, had gone and disappeared. When it got dark all around, my eyelids, which had never slept before, were closed due to travel fatigue. We arrived at the Khalil Palace Hotel where we were staying in Gulmarg late at night. It was a large hotel made entirely of wooden planks. Photos from the felling of the trees used to make the hotel are framed on the walls as a historical monument. After a sumptuous dinner, I fell asleep thinking about the snowy sights I would see for the first time in my life tomorrow.
Gulmarg is also known as the 'Meadow of flowers'. The views here are very different from the ones seen in Pahalgam. History has it that twenty-one varieties of wildflowers were found in the garden of the Mughal ruler Jahangir I. This popular skating destination is part of the Western Himalayas in the Peer Panchal Range.
Gulmarg is a snowy place for twelve months of the year. Gulmarg was a place of escape from the heat of North India during the British rule in India. Later, the world's tallest golf course was established here by the British. There are also activities like skating and sledging.
After breakfast we set off for the famous Gondola Ride (cable car ride) in Gulmarg. It takes a short walk to reach the starting point of the cable car. Along the way we were accompanied by a guide named Farooq Bhai who seems to be over fifty years old. A guide is essential if you want to get to the top. He first took us to a shop that rents boots and jackets.
Ticketing starts at 10 p.m. It was about eleven o'clock when he himself took the ticket from the line and reached the starting point with us. We have to go to two points. The first point is Kangdoor and the second is Afarwat. The Gulmarg Gondola is about 6 km long. The tallest and blueest gondola ride in Asia was an unforgettable experience.
You have to start through the pine trees and reach the top of the icebergs to reach that wonderful world. We can see a panoramic view of the surrounding icebergs as we go through it. Going up to the top of the icebergs was like going to heaven while still alive.
Well, that's exactly what we felt when we got there. Impression of heaven. Only icy places around. The glare of the sunglasses set and the light of the snow-capped peaks in the sun blinded me at least a little. Our feet often slipped on the ice as we tried to photograph the beautiful moments we experienced for the first time in our lives.
There was still ice to climb, so it was difficult to get on the truck because of the lowering of the legs and the desire to try out the sledging, so Cash insisted on getting on the sledging device. Those who dragged us in the snow started climbing the mountain. They also stopped me from time to time due to fatigue when I was dragged through the snow by an eighty kilo. When they shouted, "La ilaha," I also said, "No, Allah." As you get taller and colder, your heart rate will start to rise and you will have difficulty breathing.
By the time Farooq Bhai pulled us up, he was walking through the snowy mountains and waiting there. Now we are at the top. I am surrounded by sights that one must see or experience at least once in one's life. Silence everywhere. Only the sky above and the surrounding white icebergs. Like a dream world
Farooq Bhai showed us the India-Pakistan border in the distance and the snow-covered Pakistani military bunker. Two bunkers of Indian soldiers across the border. We spent hours there saluting in our minds the soldiers guarding our country, even at the risk of our lives in the cold. Don't really give them a salary increase. Not those who claim to be the people's representatives who have forgotten us for the benefit of the votes we have cast and are living on their own.
The experience of sledging from the top and coming down is indescribable. On the way back, it was three o'clock when I reached the bottom of the snow-covered restaurant near the first point of the cable car and ate Kashmiri Pulao, Kashmiri Kamma with Kashmiri Dammalu. He went to the hotel and checked out. It was four o'clock when Gulmarg left.
Now we have to go to Srinagar, one of the two capitals of Jammu and Kashmir. The capital is Jammu in winter and Srinagar in other seasons. It was six o'clock when I reached Srinagar, reminiscing about the beautiful snow-capped peaks of Gulmarg. Checked in at the hotel, took a shower and went out for a walk.
This is the first time this has been done for free since arriving in Kashmir. Srinagar looks like an old city. Lots of old and empty buildings all around. Probably due to constant clashes and military action. On the way back, he did some small shopping for his mother and sisters at home. When it was all over and back at the hotel it was time for dinner
The fourth day in Kashmir begins with a visit to the famous Hazratbal Masjid. This is one of the mosques where the hair of the Prophet is kept. It is said that Thirukesam was brought to India by Syed Abdullah who came from Madinah and settled in Bijapur near Hyderabad. It is said that after his death, the relics of his son Syed Hameed were sold to Khaja Nuruddin Ishai, a prominent businessman in Kashmir, due to his difficulty in preserving the relics, and was later relocated to the mosque on the instructions of the Mughal ruler Aurangzeb. Thirukesam is displayed here only once a year
When we arrived at this church on the shores of Dal Lake, it was just past eight o'clock. As we walked along the lake next to the church, we came across workers cleaning the lake. We watched in amazement as small boats removed the waste from the lake. The cleanliness of Kashmir is one of the highlights. Flux boards, including shop advertisements, posters on the walls, and plastic waste are nowhere to be seen.
After that we went to Mughal Garden. It is a wonderful world of canals, water foundations, and a variety of flowers and trees that we have never seen before. This beautiful world of gardens like Shalimar Garden and Nishant Garden was built during the Mughal rule. Therefore, we can see the presence of Persian architecture in all the structures there.
The beautiful canvas of the suburban hills of the Peer Panchal Range on one side and the famous Dal Lake on the other borders our views. You can mostly see Kashmiri families and young men and women coming here to spend time with their families. Admission is Rs 10 per person every day except Friday from 9 am to 7 pm.
Now we have to go to a wonderful world that changes the heavenly beauty of Kashmir with colors. Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden, located on 33 hectares below the Suburban Hills, amazes us with its colorful tulips. Visitors were allowed to pass through only one road as it was the time of Tulip Fest and most of the roads there were closed due to security concerns.
When I took the ticket and entered the gate, I reached the real heaven. Tulips bloom in a variety of colors, including red, orange, yellow, and purple, like a multi-colored carpet spread to receive me. I melted into one of the most colorful sights I had ever seen in my life.
When it was a little cloudy, the fog began to fall from the surrounding mountains, slowly reviving my views. The mountains play a vital role in the beauty of the tulips that stretch as far as the eye can see. The locals can be seen as beautiful as the tulips. Tulips can be seen only from late March to mid April. So we're glad to be here in April.
It was still raining outside when we arrived at the Karims restaurant near Dal Lake for lunch. By the time the meal was over, the rain had subsided a little. According to the tour operators, Shikara (the small boat) reached the jetty on the lake through the gate opposite the restaurant for the ride. There was a hunter waiting for us. The one-hour hunting ride was accompanied by a package. I added six hundred rupees with it and made it two hours.
Dal is a beautiful lake spread over an area of 1800 hectares adjacent to Srinagar. Known as the shining jewel of Kashmir's beauty, the lake has the upper garden and the suburban hills. Dal Lake and Shikhara Ride, the locations of many Bollywood movies, will take us to another dream world. Dal Lake is as calm as the real mind of Kashmir.
He began to paddle with us through the drizzle. While we were enjoying the beauty of Kashmir while sitting on it, on another hunt someone came with items like Kashmiri saffron (saffron) and Suruma. Floating market, it was really the first and wonderful for us. As we walk along Dal Lake, we can buy flowers, fruits and other groceries as well as handicrafts from the overflowing market. Often such merchants do not confuse them, even if it is an obstacle to our enjoyment of beauty.
As the rain stopped, the cold increased. I forgot to pick up the sweater from the hotel and started to really know what cold is in Kashmir. The taste of the hot sheikh kebab bought from the kebab vendor who came on the next hunt was indescribable. Probably because it was a rainy evening and we ate while hunting on the way to the beautiful Dal Lake. When he ate the kebab and got a little thirsty, he came across an old man selling cashmere kava mixed with almonds and saffron on the next hunt. We had reached the National Market after Nehru Park while buying Kawa with the love of Kashmiris from his hand.
The boatman approached our hunting shops. The National Market is an island-like area in the middle of Dal Lake that is lined with shops. Everything from Kashmir's unique weaving garments to handicrafts are on display above the wooden planks. After a short shopping spree, a woman rowed by our side just in time to go hunting. Women and children row in small boats to buy household items.
The hunter began to paddle to another part of the lake behind the national market. As we were walking through that area full of trees and wild plants, a waterfowl spotted us and plunged into the water. The natural beauty of the place is indescribable with its many ponds and birds. Most of the woven garments in the area, which has small houses and churches, are sold at the National Market and the Floating Market. The hunter told stories of children playing cricket on Dal Lake, which turns into ice during the winter, and of workers at the National Market, which is closed due to lack of tourists, and rowers at home weaving clothes.
On the way back after a two-hour trek, houseboats line the other side of the lake. Today's our last day in Kashmir. On the way back to the jetty, driver Goldie Singh was waiting for us. We had to go to the hotel, pick up our bags and return to get on the houseboat.
Nigin Lake is another lake that is close to Dal Lake. Most of the houseboats are for tourists, including foreigners. It was only when we called the tour operator that we realized that this was where we were staying. Accommodation is on a houseboat owned by the same travel agency that arranged our trip. Two hunters were waiting to take us to the houseboat on the other side of the lake. Nigin Lake is a bit quieter than Dal Lake.
The sun is about to set. The yellow light of the sun shone on the palms. In that light we saw the birds chirping above us and headed for our houseboat on the other side of the hunt. They had prepared for us a luxury houseboat with four bedrooms, a living room, and a balcony overlooking the steps leading up to the kitchen and passageway, from the seating area where we climbed out of the water. The sun had set over the western horizon before the camera could capture the view.
When the houseboat arrived, the rain began to fall again. At night we ate a meal with mutton dishes specially made for us and while we were talking in the living room the vendors started coming in one by one. They are only intended for houseboat travelers, even in the bitter cold of the night. The next morning I was talking about the reason I had to return to Jammu from Kashmir and return home.
As mentioned earlier in the morning we were bathed and fresh by the time the hunter arrived to pick us up. After eating hot Kashmiri kava and returning to Shikara from there, we were treated to morning views of the serene lake. On the way back from Srinagar there was only one disappointment, the sadness of not being able to go to Sonmarg which was in the package due to some last minute changes made in the trip. I comforted myself thinking that it might be a trip to the next Kashmir.
On the way back to Jammu from Kashmir, there are several factories and shops that make cricket bats. Cricket bats made of Kashmiri willow wood are the best and are used in different parts of the world today. For bats above Rs.1000, it is enough to pay only Rs.200 or Rs.300. On the way back from there to buy bats, the roads were crowded with military vehicles.
When we reached Jammu after a long journey, the time was evening. Every time we bought some dry fruits for office friends and others and waited for the train to Delhi, we always wanted to come to this heavenly land of Kashmir. The sights here and all the loving people will still call me, then I will once again go to the dream land, looking for sights and experiences
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